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wp5165

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  1. Hi, Yesterday I enjoyed myself playing some NLTH SH at the $10-level. The following hand came up. Before the hand commenced: SB ($22.01) BB ($10.66) UTG ($7.00) HERO ($15.48) Button ($18.14) Preflop: SB ($21.96) -> 5c BB ($10.56) -> 10c UTG ($7.00) HERO ($15.48) and I get 5d Tc Button ($18.14) UTG folds HERO folds Button calls 10c (with Ad 8c) SB calls 5 c (with 6d Jd) BB checks (with Td Kc) The flop arrives: Ks Qs Ts SB ($21.91) checks BB ($10.56) checks Button ($18.04) checks The turn brings As SB ($21.91) checks BB ($10.56) checks Button ($18.04) checks The river is Js SB ($21.91) checks BB ($10.56) checks Button ($18.04) moves all in SB and BB calls, end result: SB ($21.11) BB ($10.13) Button ($17.23) Thus, after the dealer had moved all in the best thing had been for SB and BB to fold since the rake made them lose more by calling. In retrospect: The dealer didn't make any friends by moving all in - in the process punishing himself as well! GP
  2. Jag har läst boken Beat the Dealer skriven av Edward O. Thorpe. Den är mycket bra med ett antal spektakulära berättelser från diverse korträkningsäventyr, men den skrevs innan "Illustrious 18" hade utvecklats. Detta gör att de avancerade korträkningssystem som finns i denna bok måste anses vara onödigt svåra att lära sig. Tveklöst rekommenderar jag dock boken p g a dess historiska betydelse. GP
  3. Okej, det var "bara" 25 inköp, men på NL $10k, så det var allt en mäktig syn att se denne spelare sitta med ca $250.000 framför sig. Detta inträffade igår natt på pacificpoker. GP
  4. Tack för ditt intressanta svar. Jag skulle dock vilja fråga dig hur du tolkar satsningen på $2.50 då potten endast är $1.90. Vad säger detta dig? Sedan, kan det vara så att du menar As/Ks istället för Ah/Kh som du skrev ovan? Detta då tre spader kom ut på floppen. Det är bara för mig att beklaga då jag spelar på en sajt som ej har handhistory. Jag skrev helt enkelt ned så gott jag kunde i mitt ordinarie inlägg. Jag väntar på eventuellt andra spelares synpunkter, och sedan kommer jag att berätta hur jag spelade vidare denna hand.
  5. Sakar är ett svenskt ord för att kasta korten. Jag skrev: SB ($21.41) - 12c BB ($20.13) - 25c vilket jag förmodade att ingen skulle kunna missuppfatta. Lilla mörken är 12c.
  6. Jag har ingen "read" på motspelarna då jag precis satt mig vid bordet. Vi tar denna hand steg för steg och börjar med satsningsrundan efter floppen. NLTH SH $25, 6 spelare vid bordet. UTG ($34.60) UTG+1 ($36.87) CO ($26.23) Dealer HERO ($25.42) SB ($21.41) - 12c BB ($20.13) - 25c Hålkorten kommer ut, HERO 3k 3h UTG - sakar UTG+1 - sakar CO - satsar 25c HERO - höjer till 50c - jag vill bygga en pott, samtidigt vill jag inte driva bort spelare genom en alltför stor höjning. Jag hoppas helt enkelt på att floppa en triss. SB - synar BB - synar CO - synar Potten är nu $1.90 ("rake" 10c). Floppen kommer 3s 4s Js SB - checkar BB - checkar CO - satsar $2.50 Vad sätter vi CO på? Vad gör vi?
  7. Rekommenderad läsning: http://www.poker.se/artikel-1570-poker-is-good-for-you.html I denna artikel finns HJÄRTA bara nämnt en gång, då i samband med hjärtattack. GP
  8. Hej! Poker är som livet i övrigt: Med ödmjukhet och prestigelöshet ordnar det sig. Själv spelar jag för närvarande NLTH SH och då jag rasat 10 inköp går jag ner i nivå. Därmed minskar jag sannolikheten för totalkrasch till synnerligen små tal (själv skulle jag vilja påstå att sannolikheten är 0 för att jag kommer att gula – detta då jag långt tidigare i ett sådant scenario skulle ha plockat ut pengarna och nöjt mig med den då inspelade vinsten). Att rasa 10 inköp brukar inträffa några gånger per år för mig. På det här enkla sättet har jag lugnt och stadigt ökat min bankrulle, och jag tänker fortsätta så. Då jag spelat ca 1.5 år och varit vinnande hela tiden (FLTH FR, NLTH FR, SnG 10-manna topp-3 ITM, SnG 5-manna topp-3 ITM), råkade jag ut för ett halvår då jag helt enkelt inte kunde vinna. Resultatet var +/- 0, men jag spelade också SnG 6-manna topp-3 ITM och dessa lyckades jag ej att bemästra. Då var det bara att svälja all prestige och erkänna för sig själv att detta klarar jag ej av med nuvarande pokerskicklighet (alternativt att denna variant inte passar min spelstil). Så, då gick jag över till NLTH SH och sedan dess har pokern rullat på riktigt bra. Själv ser jag mitt pokerspelande som ett livslångt lärande. Det är inte bara beslutsfattandet som ideligen sätts på prov, utan också ens karaktär – och det är dessa två bitar som gör pokern till en så givande aktivitet. För närvarande arbetar jag bland annat på att bli bättre på att saka mina kort då jag vet att jag är slagen men då jag av någon anledning ej kan kasta korten. Jag tror att jag kan finna en bättre väg där jag ej kommer att bli ansedd som enkel att bluffa samtidigt som jag kan spara en del pengar på onödiga syner. Som du ser så blir man aldrig fullärd, och det är nog detta som är meningen med livet. Jag hoppas att du kan plocka delar av mina synpunkter ovan och applicera dessa på ditt eget spel. Lycka till! GP
  9. Hej, Om du tar kontakt med sajten skulle jag rekommendera dig att behandla andra som du själv vill bli behandlad. Lycka till. GP
  10. Dear Phil: Many thanks for having written "Play Poker Like the Pros" - a book that have resulted in some nice money for me! However, there is one piece of advice I still would like to ask you about. For NLH under the heading "Beginners: If You Hold A-A, K-K, Q-Q, or A-K before the Flop. Bet It All" you write: "When you have one of these top four hands in NLH, you can almost always justify shoving all your chips out there before the flop. (...)" My experience having played approximately 100.000 hands NLH full ring games on the internet ($2-, $10-, $25-, and $50-level) is that the only hand you can justify going all in with before the flop is A-A. This, I would say, is valid for all games above the $2-level (blinds 1c/2c). Examples I have experienced: $10-level (blinds 5c/10c) I sit on the button. A player two seats before me raises to 40c, I hold Q-Q, and noticing this raise (4*BB) I decide to call only (would you go all in here?). All right, the SB folds, now the BB raises to 70c, and I wonder what's going on. The player two seats before me re-raises to $1.5, and here I decide to fold. BB goes all in, the first player calls. Both show A-A. $10-level, I sit in late position, a player in early position (with $19 in chips) raises to 40c, I hold K-K (and have $17 in front of me), and decide to raise to find out where I am at, so I bet 80c (I do not go all in here, would you do this?), now, a few players after me calls, and finally it is back to the initial raiser, who without any whatsoever hesitation goes all in with his remaining $19. I decide to fold. Another player calls. The initial raiser shows A-A, the caller shows Q-Q. $25-level. UTG raises to $2.75, I hold A-A and decide to go all in with my $22, insta-call by UTG who shows K-K. I win the pot. My experience is that at the $2-level there are enough players who think "aha, he's bluffing, let's call" when I go all in with K-K, Q-Q, or A-K to make this profitable. However, for any level above this lowest microlimit I have noticed that if I go all in before the flop with Q-Q, or A-K, I am almost only called if I am beat. The only exception is if I'd be very low on chips, but usually I fill up to maximum as soon as I drop down to 80% of full buy-in. Note: I am playing on a site that is considered as one of the loosest on the internet, but my experience is that the players there really are not just throwing their money away. So, please, feel free to comment on this. Some ideas I have come up with: Maybe your recommendation is for live cash games only, where you can see the other players. Could it be that the internet players have become a lot more knowledgeable since you wrote your book? Many thanks in advance for your reply, and please remember, if I bust you - it is your fault! GP
  11. Hej! Jag spelar inte denna nivå, men får här en känsla att FI sitter med endera T9s eller JTs (mindre troligt känns ATs). Jag gillar iofs inte hans "preflop"-syn (jag tycker att det är för dyrt med dessa kort), men höjningen efter fjärde kortet upplever jag som om FI försöker blockera ett eventuellt färgdrag från din sida. Jag skulle saka med andra ord när FI går "all in". GP
  12. Hi! I write this in English since I haven't got a Swedish keyboard. Okay, right now I'm pretty rusty playing blackjack with cardcounting, but a few years ago I was in Las Vegas for an extended period of time trying this out. First, it took me 1 h to learn basic strategy, then 4 h of practicing before I felt ready to play in a casino. No problems, it was easy. This happened many years ago. Then, I decided to go to Las Vegas and therefore I set about to learn cardcounting plus basic strategy with deviations (I think there were 16 deviations in the system I learnt). LEARNING cardcounting according to the hi/lo-index is not that difficult: You set a tag on each high card (T, J, Q, K, A) of -1, middle cards (7, 8, 9) set a tag of 0, and low cards get a tag of +1. Okay, now you start practicing, slowly at first, it might take you a minute or more to go through one deck of cards. Ex: First card out is a 6, you count +1; second card is a 3, you count +2; third card is a 4, you count +3; fourth card is a J, you count +2 (since a J is -1), etc. This is the running count. When you've gone through the deck you should arrive at 0, otherwise you've made a mistake. (hint: to speed things up I skipped saying 'plus' on the positive side, and only said 'M' on the negative side. This, since it takes too much time to say 'plus three, plus four, plus three, plus two, plus one, zero, minus one' etc. For me it's: 'three, four, three, two, one, zero, M-one' etc. I think I came down to counting one deck of cards in 15 seconds or so. The limit was that I couldn't deal the cards faster.) Now you must adjust the running count to a true count. I don't remember right now, but you adjust according to one principle if you have a single deck game, and another principle if you play in a multideck game. All right, as I said above, it's not that difficult LEARNING it, but MASTERING it is a completely different ballgame! All in all I practiced about 200 h before I felt ready to go to Las Vegas, since there are so many things you need to do in a sometimes busy atmosphere. It's something like this: The deck has been shuffled, and now the cards basically fly out on the table (the dealers are VERY fast!). You count the cards according to the hi/lo-index and now it's your turn to act, but remember that you might have to adjust the standing/doubling down/splitting decisions depending on what the TRUE count is (so you have adjusted the running count to the true count). Okay, so you make the proper play, then all the time new cards come out you have to go back to the running count and continue from there. Next round and it might be time to adjust the bet size according to the true count. Then, the cards fly out once more, back to running count, then adjust to true count before it's time for decisions! I don't remember how you change bet size, but at least when the true count is on the positive side, you increase the bet size, and the higher the true count is, the more you bet (according to the Kelly criteria.) All right, I had thought I'd be able to play 8 h per day, forget that. This is an extremely demanding activity (at least for me). I think I succeeded in playing maybe 2 h at most per day. Risk of being detected? Yes, very much so. Although I was playing at the lowest stakes, they spotted me rather quickly and a pit-boss gave me heat! Incredible! Okay, I was not banned from the casino (I won't tell you which one I played at) but during my more than 50 h playing plus another bunch of h when I was just observing others playing I only saw one or two other players whom I noticed were counting cards. This tells you a little bit about how hard it is to do this in a casino environment. If I were a casino owner I wouldn't worry too much unless the blackjack games were infested by cardcounters only. For example, in Zandvoort in the Netherlands there were a number of cardcounters occupying the highest limit games (this was early 1990's, great fun to watch!). A few years ago I was back, and they had changed to shuffling machines, and me acting stupid I asked a croupier (yes, the roulette) about this, and then she told me that these players were too expensive for the casino! I can believe that since the limits were quite high. I know of at least one other European casino where they still deal cards from a shoe (won't tell you which I've spotted), and here I think it's extremely important for the players not to be too greedy, since then the casino might change to shuffling machines. Finally one more hint: For me it was not enough to practice cardcounting holding a deck of cards and then dealing the cards down onto the table in one little heap. To get the proper feel I always dealt the cards onto the table as if it were on a real blackjack table. For me, this was vital! If I hadn't practiced the real way, I don't think I had made it. Good luck, GP PS. I learnt playing blackjack through a blackjack education (5 parts) that I found on the internet. Unfortunately I am not able to find it anymore, so I cannot give you any links. DS. PS2. Conclusion - I don't play blackjack anymore. Poker is a lot easier to make a profit playing (at least for me! ). DS2.
  13. Hej! Stort tack för ditt svar! Prima - here I come! GP
  14. Hej! Vet ni var man kan spela 5-manna SnGs där topp-3 kommer in i pengarna? Dessa fanns på pacificpoker men togs bort förra hösten. Exempelvis hade de sådana med ett inköp om $11, där $10 lades till potten. Pengarna delades ut enligt följande, om jag minns rätt: Vinnaren fick $25, andraplatsen gav $15, och tredjeplatsen betalades med $10 (och här gick man alltså med $1 i förlust). Stort tack på förhand. GP
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